With its’ pretty coastal villages, more islands and islets than you can count, delectable seafood and dazzling light, Morbihan is said to be the pearl of Southern Brittany. And undoubtedly a jewel of Morbihan is the Domaine de Rochevilaine on the tip of Pen Lan, a destination in an of itself.
A remarkable little hamlet perched on the granite rocks that jut into the waves, a paradise of relaxing gardens and architectural buildings steeped in history, Domaine de Rochevilaine offers an unforgettable stay.
Domaine de Rochevilaine
Perched on the rocky tip of Pen Lan, Domaine de Rochevilaine is a hamlet of romantic old manor houses and cottages stretching across 300 meters of private seafront overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Located just a 30-minute drive from charming Vannes, the luxury Relais & Châteaux hotel is situated in the commune of Billiers, which takes its name from its position between the estuary of the Vilaine and the Atlantic Ocean.
It’s the type of place with its’ idyllic sea views that you just don’t want to leave, despite all the the Gulf of Morbihan has to offer visitors. Instead, you’re enticed to while away the day on your private terrace as the sailboats go by or to indulge in the ultimate relaxation of the Aqua Phénicia spa with its saunas, steam rooms and world class treatments.
It’s hard to image this spot wasn’t always so picturesque. In the aftermath of WWII, the little village of holiday homes and lighthouse was left mostly abandoned and it became a landfill. That was until industrialist Henri Dresch had a vision. After a years long redevelopment project, the holiday home of the Viscount de Saint Belin was restored. The first guest rooms were opened and the hotel was born.
But Henri Dresch didn’t stop there. He had a passion for old, ruined buildings around Brittany and Dresch dismantled them, transported them, and restored a number of these historic buildings stone by stone. Today a historic collection of amazing architectural buildings makes up the Domaine de Rochevilaine, including the Manor of Lieuzel at Pleucadeuc from the 16th century and the monumental 13th century gate from the manor of Coit By in Guégon standing at the entrance.
It was in 1997 that Bertrand Jaquet purchased the estate. It remains family-run still today with Bretrand Jaquet’s daughter, Cécile Nouail Jaquet, and his son-in-law, Maxime Nouail, at the helm.
Domaine de Rochevilaine is the oldest Breton member of the Relais & Châteaux.
Rooms and Suites
Domaine de Rochevilaine has 34 rooms and suites all with sea view vistas of the Baie de Vilaine, but each with its’ own unique theme.
All rooms and suites have modern amenities like WiFi, smart TVs, Nespresso machines, a stocked mini bar fridge, air conditioning, hair dryers, room service, king size beds and are pet-friendly for a nominal daily fee of 20€. Rooms and suites can accommodate 2 – 4 guests, depending on the room selected.
We stayed in Le Manoir Renaissance in the Coiffes themed room. The large 53m2 room is situated on the ground floor level and has a 28m2 terrace with incredible vistas of the Baie de Vilaine. Themed for the last hair dressers of the village of Billiers, the interiors are in shades of black, white, grays and golds with subtle nods to the hairdresser theme.
Our room had an XL king size bed, both a bath and a walk-in rain shower, sun loungers on the terrace, and dining tables both on the terrace and inside.
A selection of shampoos, conditioners, soaps and lotions made in France for Domaine de Rochevilaine is available in each room.
Le Manoir Renaissance was the 16th century Manor of Lieuzel at Pleucadeuc, and inside the building are several remarkable Renaissance-inspired carved woodworks by Maurice Mainguy from the 1960s and 1970s. And directly outside our door in front of Le Manoir Renaissance is a well dating from 1778 that was installed within the domaine.
As, unsurprisingly, the hotel was full during our early summer stay, we didn’t have a look at any of the other rooms but can imagine that all are no less magnificent than our comfy room.
Breakfast is encouraged to be served in your room, though breakfast is also available to be served in the restaurant if you prefer. You have a selection of four different breakfast menus to choose from, all with nods to the Breton terroir and featuring locally sourced products. We loved that breakfast is served as room service, and you just place your order and request your breakfast time the night before.
It’s worth noting that while Domaine de Rochevilaine has crafted their breakfast menus to choose from, they are gracious about customizing the breakfast to the guest preferences. For example, we preferred scrambled eggs to the soft-boiled eggs on the menu.
Le Bar à Coquillages
Le Bar à Coquillages is a newer feature of Domaine de Rochevilaine, and serves up smaller bites for seafood lovers from 11am – 7pm on Wednesday through Sunday. The menu is a chalkboard tablet written up with the freshest catch of the moment. You can taste local oysters by Phillippe Le Gal, clams, mussels, octopus, langoustines and smoked fish all from locally within the Gulf of Morbihan.
Dine at the high stools around the horseshoe shaped bar or, as we did, out in the lovely garden.
We selected several shellfish to share including oysters N°2, clams marinated in cidre, mussels marinated in beer, and octopus served over a bed of lentils.
The octopus was perfectly cooked, and always a dish that is a good indication of the excellence of a seafood restaurant. I also have to note that we’re still dreaming of the mussels in the beer sauce, which rank among the best mussels we’ve ever had. The pear poached in red wine was the perfect sweet finish to an afternoon spent savoring the seafood of the Golf of Morbihan.
La Table du Domaine de Rochevilaine
La Table du Domaine de Rochevilaine is the gourmet restaurant, and its’ 50 meters of panoramic windows makes you feel like you’re on ship perched over the ocean as you dine on a creative, refined menu that highlights the Breton terroir.
You’re likely to be greeted by Cécile Nouail Jacquet herself, and offered an apértif in the cozy Saint-André lounge where you can discover local Breton spirits, before indulging in undoubtedly one of the best meals you’ll have in Brittany.
At the helm since 2014 is Chef Maxime Nouail, and his menu evolves with the seasons. We noted all the local producers are noted, along with their distances, and nearly all hail from within 50 kilometers of Domaine de Rochevilaine.
The restaurant offers an à la carte menu, or several chef menus to choose from including Domaine de Rochevilaine’s signature culinary experience: the Menu Homard (Lobster Menu) presented in 5 stages. The Menu Homard is for two persons with a 1.3 kilogram lobster to share, and uses every part of the lobster from head to tail and claws. The lobster feast culminates in the dessert course where lobster is even creatively incorporated.
Tempted by – well – everything on the menu, we started with a dozen oysters from local oyster farmer Philippe Le Gal from just 15 kilometers away in Port Groix. We also choose the to die for mussels farmed 4 kilometers away in Pénestin in a Breton IPA beer sauce. Somehow Chef Maxime Nouail turns beer into a creamy sauce that clings gloriously to the mussels, and then is so incredibly delicious that you want to finish off every last bit like a soup.
Compliments of the chef, we also had the langoustine carpaccio with peas in a green crab vinaigrette. I was thrilled to see this dish presented to us, as I’d been eyeing it up on the menu.
As our main course, we chose the Breton blue lobster from local fisherman Xavier Tromeur in the port de Lorient. Breton blue lobster is s renowned for having a sweeter and more briny taste, with a thicker shell than Maine lobster. The live lobster, no less than 1.3 kilograms to share for two, is presented prior to cooking.
We choose the traditional Breton recipe served with churned butter, coraillé sauce and served with tagliatelle. Our roasted lobster was again presented to us table side, where our server removed the tail and claws from the shell and plated with with the fresh tagliatelle.
Jean-Marc Boitaud has been the sommelier at La Table du Domaine de Rochevilaine for more than 20 years, and he expertly paired delightful wines with our menu selections. The cellar, located in an old blockhouse in the garden, has ideal conditions for aging the Domaine’s impressive wine list.
For a sweet finish, we opted for the Grand Mariner soufflé and a hazelnut sable with milk chocolate and lemon milk ice cream.
Following our exquisite meal at La Table du Domaine de Rochevilaine, it’s even more perplexing that the restaurant lost its Michelin star during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2021 without explanation from the Michelin Guide. With the aim of regaining their star, the entire team demonstrates the mastery, personality and quality ingredients with wow factor you’d expect of a Michelin star dining experience. It seems a glaring oversight if La Table du Domaine de Rochevilaine does not regain their lost star.
Aqua Phénicia Spa
Domaine de Rochevilaine is also home to Aqua Phénicia, France’s first marine spa. Named for the Phoenicians who transported pewter for bronze making on the this historic pewter route, the 1300m2 spa complex was created in 1997 and is considered a pioneer of spas in France.
All guests have access to the wellness area with a sauna, hammam and heated indoor swimming pool under a glass domed roof. Loungers face the panoramic windows overlooking the sea, and invite you to relax for a while.
Though we only utilized the wellness area, there are also a variety of treatments and massages available to choose from, balneotherapy and a Moorish salon.n
Additionally, an outdoor heated seawater swimming pool is open from June to September. Sunbeds and towels are available on the outdoor pool terrace.
Pet-Friendly
Domaine de Rochevilaine is a pet-friendly hotel with a small pet fee. Dogs are very welcome in the rooms and suites, throughout the gardens and coastal walking trails, and at a number of tourism attractions nearby. Dogs are not allowed in the Aqua Phénicia Spa or at the outdoor pool.
Domaine de Rochevilaine doesn’t currently offer any special amenities for pets such as beds, bowls or treats. For us, pet amenities are appreciated but never necessary as we travel with everything Coco needs anyway.
La Table du Domaine de Rochevilaine does not have a no dogs policy, however, it is encourage not to bring your dog to the restaurant. It is preferred that only exceptionally well-behaved and quiet dogs who are accustomed to staying out of sight dine with you, and dogs are welcome to stay unattended in your room.
Coco was personally much happier having her evening nap in the comfort and calm of our room, than for joining us for a meal over several hours. Coco did, however, join us for lunch at the Bar à Coquillages and the outdoor garden is a lovely, shaded spot for well-behaved dogs to join you for lunch.
Drinks and snacks are also served on the terrace of Salon Bar, and well-behaved dogs are welcome to join you there.
Know Before You Go
Getting to Domaine de Rochevilaine
Domaine de Rochevilaine is best reached by car, so that you can easily explore all that Morbihan has to offer visitors during your stay. The hotel has free parking for guests, as well as free electric charging stations available for electric vehicles.
Located in the small village of Billiers, Domaine de Rochevilaine can also be reached via fast train to Vannes in around 2.5 hours from Paris and in around 5 hours from Bordeaux with a connection via the Paris – Bordeaux fast train. We recommend booking train tickets via Trainline for ease. Domaine de Rochevilaine can help arrange taxi transport from Vannes to the hotel.
We were guests of Domaine de Rochevilaine in order to bring you this story. However, Luxe Adventure Traveler maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site. As always, all thoughts, opinions, and enthusiasm for travel are entirely our own. This article contains affiliate links. When you book through our affiliate sites, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
