Standing with our backs to the gusting wind, every so often we take a peek back at the massive blue glacier we’re about to climb. Sólheimajökull glacier tongue, the southwestern outlet of the Myrdalsjokull icecap, is about 8 kilometers long and 1 – 2 kilometers wide. And just 20 years ago, the glacier had covered the very spot we were now standing and shivering in the biting wind. Sadly, like most glaciers of our world, Sólheimajökull glacier is rapidly receding. So the fact that we were about to go glacier hiking on this massive piece of ice felt incredibly special.
A blue January day on Sólheimajökull Glacier
Our guides from Icelandic Mountain Guides fitted us with crampons and gave us each an ice axe, which would be used as both a walking stick and to stop ourselves just in case anyone fell.
Our guide, Katherine, demonstrates various techniques using our crampons
Our small group of 10 then set out carrying our crampons threaded on our ice axes with our guide, Katherine, who smiled as she told us she had 20 years experience with glacier hiking. At the tip of the glacier tongue, we got a lesson on how to properly put on our crampons and some basic techniques.
A dangerous moulin
Katherine expertly spots a patch of thin ice
Glacier hiking is no walk in the park. It can be extremely dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing, since the ice is always moving and changing. Snow can cover thin ice and crevasses. Surface water flowing down the glacier can form moulins, or shafts in the ice that can be hundreds of meters deep. Basically, you don’t want to fall because if you survived, you’d probably have some broken bones. All of this is precisely why you go with knowledgeable guides who are constantly up on the glacier and know its movements and sounds.
Using crampons is a bit like stomping with each step
Katherine cautioned to use all our weight to dig the crampons into the ice as we walked. I heard the satisfying crunch as I stomped around on the ice like a pouting five year old.
Katherine demonstrating how to go down. You sort of “sit” and use the ice axe as a point of stability behind you.
Once we were all comfortable with the basic technique of applying pressure to dig our crampons in, we got a few more lessons and practiced how to climb a steep slope. Sometimes skirting around those moulins requires a technique called frenching. We practiced walking with our left foot straight and our right foot at a 45 degree angle. And what goes up must come down, so we practiced a technique putting our ice axes behind us, bending our knees, and leaning back as we firmly stuck one foot after the other into the ice.
Iceland South Coast Attractions You Shouldn’t Miss
Taking in the spectacular views from the summit of Sólheimajökull Glacier
Up, up, up we went. The wind blew tiny pieces of ice across the glacier, our crunching punctuated by the tinkling sounds of ice dancing across ice. Finally we reached the summit of the glacier. What a view! We could see the mountains and the Myrdalsjokull icecap behind us and all the way to the sea and the Westman Islands in front of us.
An ice cave on Sólheimajökull Glacier
This ice cave probably ran at least 200 meters down in to the ice
On our descent, we found an ice cave. Flowing melted glacier water sometimes creates caves like this and they can go quite deep. You can never be sure with the ice and the caves can be really narrow, so we did not go all the way inside the cave, but our guides thought the cave probably ran about 200 meters into the ice.
Tim explores the ice cave
We had a fantastic day glacier hiking and can’t wait for our next opportunity to go glacier hiking again. Don’t miss this Icelandic adventure when exploring Iceland’s South Coast.
Know Before You Go
- Bring water. We didn’t and we were definitely regretting that decision.
- Bring a snack like a candy bar or a power bar for a quick boost of energy. It can be tiring glacier hiking up to the summit!
- The glacier hike takes about 3 hours, of which 2 hours are on the glacier.
- The meeting spot is Sólheimajökll Cafe, which is about a 2.5 – 3 hour drive from Reykjavik depending on the weather and road conditions.
Iceland Mountain Guides provided our glacier hiking experience in order to bring you this story. However, Luxe Adventure Traveler maintains full editorial control of the content published on this site. As always, all thoughts, opinions, and enthusiasm for travel are entirely our own.
Marlene Dombrowski says
great pictures from the smiles sure looks like you had fun.
marlene says
wow such great pictures. i am sure that was an incredible experience and since the glaciers are melting one that would be something not to miss doing at least once.
cheap car hire Australia says
I would confess I couldn’t even pronounce the name of the place properly but the pictures got me all excited to experience glacier hiking!
Have a super 2013! 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
I’m pretty sure we can’t properly pronounce the name of the glacier either. That’s part of Iceland’s charm – the famously unpronounceable names!
Ali says
Looks awesome! Glad you had a good time, and you got some great pictures!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
It was a really great hike! And despite my talking about the dangers, Icelandic Mountain Guides really made sure we were always safe.
Leigh says
Looks like a great day on the glacier though I bet you were ready for a hot drink at the end of it all.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
We were definitely ready for some nice cold water after, Leigh! Despite the howling wind, it was surprisingly warm stomping around on the crampons. It was a great hike!
Greg Prohl says
Lovely photos and looks like an absolutely awesome time was had by all. Sad to say despite living most of my life here in the Pacific N.W. and doing tons of hiking, I’ve never gone glacier hiking per se, but I think your article has just inspired me to change that!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
That’s great, Greg! We hope you get out for some glacier hiking soon. It really is spectacular.
Marc says
Nice article and pics. I’m glad you indicate that you went with a guide since it’s a dangerous activity unless one is intimate with the particular glacier. For glaciers that are NOT receding, travel to Chile and Argentina.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Thanks, Marc! I definitely think it’s important to go with a guide. The guides know the glacier and really ensure your safety while hiking on it.
We’d love to explore more glaciers in Chile and Argentina! Definitely on our bucket list.
Derek Freal says
Your photos are impressive. Too bad you couldn’t crawl further into the ice cave…that thing looks neat! Plus hiking a glacier has long been on my bucket list, even before global warming became such a hot topic.
Glad y’all had the chance, looks like you had a blast!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Definitely go glacier hiking if you get the chance, Derek! It is a lot of fun and there’s something so special about being on the moving ice. The cave was beautiful, though being in a cave made of ice atop a volcano that could erupt at any time does trigger some phobias…
Jeremy says
Awesome! I hiked a glacier in New Zealand and it was one of the single greatest things I’ve ever done!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Was it the Franz Joseph glacier? Hiking that one is totally on my bucket list!
Jeremy says
Oh, it totally was! Photos here: http://www.travelfreak.net/hiking-the-franz-josef-glacier-a-photo-essay/
Escape Hunter says
Those long long Icelandic place names sound so adventurous 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Iceland is a great adventure travel destination! Look for all new adventures and more off-the-beaten path things to do when we head back again this September.
Paul says
Delightful pictures, truly mesmerizing.
Abhi says
Looks great! In which month did you do this hike?
Jennifer Dombrowski says
We’ve actually done it twice now, once in January and once in September.