Known as one of the longest defined coastal routes in the world, the Wild Atlantic Way is a bucket list road trip. The 1600 mile (2600 km) route along Ireland’s West Coast is filled with wonders of nature and pristine beaches, making the Wild Atlantic Way the perfect dog-friendly Ireland itinerary.
The Wild Atlantic Way snakes along the coast (and to the islands) from the Inishowen Peninsula in the north down to the colorful seaside town of Kinsale in the south. There’s no specific direction you have to travel in, and you should travel in the direction that makes the most sense from where you arrive in Ireland. As we traveled to Ireland with a dog on Brittany Ferries from Bilbao to Rosslare, we started in Kinsale and worked our way clockwise all the way around to Northern Ireland.
There’s a lot to see on the Wild Atlantic Way! Officially there are 188 Wild Atlantic Way discovery points. We spent two weeks road tripping the Wild Atlantic Way and still only scratched the surface. Unless you have unlimited time to explore Ireland, making an itinerary of the Wild Atlantic Way sights you most want to see is crucial – especially as dog-friendly accommodation options can be quite limited outside of Ireland’s main cities.
Of course, for any Wild Atlantic Way trip you’ll want to be sure to have mobile service. If your phone is eSIM capable, eSIMs are the easiest way to ensure you have service for your trip. What is an eSIM? It’s a digital version of a physical SIM card that you can purchase ahead of your trip and easily activate on your arrival to ensure you don’t have costly roaming charges while staying connected.
Follow this guide for all the dog-friendly Wild Atlantic Way sights and activities we did on our road trip:
County Cork
Kinsale: The Southern Gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way
Kinsale is the quintessential fishing town and the gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way. Famous for its colorful houses, as the gourmet capital of Ireland with excellent restaurants including Michelin-star Bastion and the scenic harbor with two forts, Kinsale was our perfect base for a few days exploring West Cork – including taking a day trip to Cobh. Here’s what not to miss in Kinsale:
- Spanish Galleon Mast in Kinsale Harbour is a replica mast from the Spanish ship. It commemorates the 400th anniversary of the Battle of Kinsale (1601).
- Kinsale Old Town is filled with brightly colored houses and buildings. Stroll around and pop by a few pubs for a drink.
- Have breakfast at the dog-friendly Cosy Cafe on the Church Square. Everything on the seasonal menu is sourced from local suppliers. Go for the full Irish breakfast! And don’t be surprised if dog-loving locals order some sausages for your pup.
- Take a sunet stroll along the quay of Kinsale Harbour before finishing the evening with some ball at the Kinsale Town Park.
- Try the local lobster at Fishy Fishy Restaurant, an award-winning seafood restaurant helmed by owner-chef Martin Shanahan, one of Ireland’s leading seafood chefs. The outdoor terrace is dog-friendly.
- Dine on the finest grass-fed, dry aged beef and lamb from the family farm at Finns Farmcut. The surf and turf with local scallops is an excellent choice to savor both the farm dry-aged beef and local seafood. Not that Finns Farmcut is not dog-friendly.
- Have a leather bag handcrafted at the Danny Albu Leather Studio of Kinsale. I had a beautiful leather tote bag made to carry all of Coco’s things. And Danny even made a matching pouch for Coco to attach to her harness.
- Don’t leave Kinsale without trying the to-die-for pastries at Seeds Bakery. The artisan bakers specialize in sourdough and are focused on sustainability, using as many local products as possible.
Cobh: Titanic’s last port of call in 1912
Then named Queenstown, Titanic made its final port of call on 11 April, 1912 in Cork Harbour before continuing on its ill-fated voyage. Today the beautiful town still holds a deep connection with Titanic, and a Titanic Trail along with the Cobh Heritage Center, located in the town’s former White Star Line Ticket Office, tells the story of the Titanic’s last stop in Ireland and the lives of the 123 passengers who boarded the ship there.
Here’s how to spend a day exploring Cobh with a dog:
- Take a photo of the Deck of Cards Houses from West View Park on Cobh’ steepest street.
- While the Cobh Heritage Center and Titanic Experience there aren’t dog-friendly, you can go on a dog-friendly Titanic Trail Tour walking tour of Cobh. Well behaved dogs on a leash are welcome on the tour.
- Relax in the seafront John F. Kennedy Park. There’s sculptures like The Navigato, a canyon, the Cobh Band Stand where there’s live music, and a farmer’s market on Friday mornings.
- Take a photo at the White Star Line Building. This was the former offices and where the last passengers boarded Titanic in Cobh. Today it houses the Titanic Experience Cobh, though the museum is not dog-friendly inside.
- Take a photo at the Cunard Line Offices Building, where most of the 764 people saved from the torpedoed Lusitania were landed on 7 May, 1915.
- Visit the Lusitania Wall of Remembrance, a memorial to the lost souls of the torpedoed Lusitania. The torpedoing of this passenger ship catapulted the US in to WWI.
- Visit the RMS Lusitania Memorial
- Get your dog a treat at Stockbull Pet Store right on main street in the center of Cobh. Then visit a dog-friendly pub like The Mauretania Bar for a pint.
Long Strand Beach: Renowned Surfing Beach in West Cork
The 1.5 mile long beach is one of Ireland’s most beautiful beaches. Aptly named Long Strand Beach, it’s also a year round dog-friendly beach popular for beach walks and surfing. Just mind the strong currents and steep drop off from the shore.
At the end of Long Strand Beach is The Fish Basket, a small fish and chips shop serving up local fish and scampi sourced from West Cork. Instead of traditional fish and chips, we opted for their fish tacos. Hake is battered, fried crispy, and served in flour tortillas with their tomato salsa and lime dressing. Of course, the tacos come with a side of chips and mushy peas. It’s a delicious way to spend an afternoon on the Wild Atlantic Way.
The Fish Basket is dog-friendly outside. Grab one of their picnic tables or bring a beach blanket and enjoy on the beach!
Just a few minutes drive from Long Strand Beach, you can also stop for a brief walk at Galley Head. It’s a scenic spot for beautiful views of the Wild Atlantic Way coastline. The Galley Head Lighthouse, built in 1875, is also located there. It’s still a functioning lighthouse, and along with the Fastnet lighthouse, are two of the most powerful lighthouses in Europe. There’s actually no public access to walk out to the lighthouse, and it is not open to the public for visits except during Heritage Week in late August each year. But Galley Head Lighthouse is one of the Irish lighthouses you can stay in and offers two restored lightkeepers cottages. However, it is not a dog-friendly lighthouse stay.
Barley Cove: One of the Most Beautiful Beaches of County Cork
Definitely one of the most unique beaches we visited on the Wild Atlantic Way, Barley Cove Beach needs to be on your dog-friendly Ireland road trip itinerary. It is one of Ireland’s most beautiful beaches and well worth going a bit out of the way for.
Barley Cove isn’t a beach you just stumble upon. It’s tucked away off the winding roads of County Cork between Mizen Head and Brow Head. And then accessed by a short walk along a wooden boardwalk through sand dunes before crossing a tidal stream via a floating pontoon bridge to finally reach the cove.
The whole area was formed as a result of a tsunami following the Lisbon earthquake in 1755. According to signs along the wooden walkway, a newspaper in County Cork reported 15-foot all waves that washed sand ashore. It remains to this day and is jaw-droppingly beautiful. Barley Cove Beach itself has been designated as a Special Area of Conservation by the EU. The beach is wild and the sand pristine.
The rural Barley Cove Beach is rarely crowded and it’s a year round dog-friendly beach.
County Kerry
Skellig Islands: The Star of the Wild Atlantic Way
The Skellig Islands are known as the star of the Wild Atlantic Way. The uninhabited islands lay 12 kilometers (8 miles) off Ireland’s southwest coast and are only accessible by boat. Lashed mercilessly by the Atlantic, monks still chose the twin-peaked Skellig Michael to build a monastery as it was as far away from civilization in the 6th century and as close to God.
As playwright George Bernard Shaw said, Skellig Michael is ‘a part of our dream world’. Skellig is old Irish for sharp rock in the sea, and it is exactly that. A seemingly impossible world suddenly jutting sharply out of the sea. It’s no wonder such an otherworldly place was chosen as a filming location for Star Wars Episode VII – The Force Awakens.
The trip out to Skellig Michael and its sister island Little Skellig is not for the faint of heart. The trip can be made weather permitting between April and October. Only a handful of boats are licensed to land on Skellig Michael, and on the days you can land a guide is required to climb the 618 steps to the 6th century monastery where monks lived for over 600 years. The monastery and Skellig Michael is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage sites in Ireland.
Dogs are not allowed on Skellig Michael as it is a bird sanctuary to the 35,000 pairs of gannets that live there, but dogs can make the boat trip with Skellig Tours.
Tim was going to do the hike while I stayed on the boat with Coco and the resident dogs, but it turned out it was much too rough to land as planned. The incredible sight of the islands makes you immediately forget you’re a little green around the gills. It’s a full day trip out to the Skelligs, along with sailing around Bull Rock and under Ireland’s only cable car at Dursey Island, but definitely worth it to see a truly bucket list remote location.
Ross Castle: Ancestral Home of the Chiefs of the Clan O’Donoghue
The 15th century tower house, Ross Castle, sits on the on the edge of Lough Leane in Killarney National Park. It was built between 1450 – 1500 by Irish chieftain O’Donoghue Mór, who ruled the Killarney territory at the time.
O’Donoghue Mór lost the castle in a battle and there’s a legend that says he fell from one of the tower windows and disappeared in to Lough Leane with his horse. It’s believed he lives in the lake with his horse still watching over his castle. Every seven years in May he rises with his magnificent white horse, and if you catch a glimpse you’ll have good luck for the rest of your life.
The castle is restored with period oak furniture and you can take a guided tour of the interior. Dogs aren’t allowed on the castle tour, but you can explore the grounds of Ross Castle with your dog free of charge.
County Clare
Inch Beach: One of Ireland’s Handful of Beaches You Can Drive a Car On
Inch Beach is famous for being the place where an inch is actually 3 miles long. Flanked by sand dunes with the Slieve Mish Mountains rising up behind, the mirror-like sand at low tide reflects the dramatic scenery.
It’s also one of just a handful of Ireland beaches that you can drive a car out on to and cruise down the 5.5 kilometer long sandy beach. Inch Beach is also a popular surf beach with surf schools located up and down the strand.
Inch Beach is dog-friendly with some restrictions. From June 1 – September 15, dogs are restricted from the blue flag area of Inch Beach between 11am – 7pm. Dogs on a lead are welcome year round outside the blue flag area and before 11am or after 7pm within the blue flag area during the high summer period.
Vandeleur Walled Garden: One of Ireland’s Most Spectacular Walled Gardens
County Clare’s Vandeleur Walled Garden is one of Ireland’s most spectacular walled gardens. And it’s worth the stop on the drive from Killarney National Park to the Cliffs of Moher.
Set of the grounds of the former ancestral home of the Vandeleur family, the gardens are stunning. There’s fun touches like a labyrinth and lawn games like a giant chess game, a Victorian style greenhouse, a cafe, kid’s play area, garden center to purchase plants, and – best of all – it’s dog-friendly.
You can purchase the Two County Clare ticket that includes the visit to Vandeleur Walled Garden + the Cliffs of Moher. Both attractions are dog-friendly and dogs are free of charge. Dogs should remain on a lead.
Cliffs of Moher: Ireland’s Most Dramatic Cliffs
There are few places in Ireland as dramatic as the jagged limestone cliffs soaring up to an impressive 700 meters. The Cliffs of Moher are considered by most as a highlight of any trip to the Emerald Isle, and are Ireland’s most visited natural attraction with over 1 million visiting annually.
No trip to Ireland is complete without visiting the Cliffs of Moher. In a true Instagram vs. reality moment, we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher in a foggy white out on our first attempt. Luckily we planned to stay a few nights near the Cliffs of Moher, and the next morning was overcast but clear.
Plan to spend at least half a day at the Cliffs of Moher. There’s a coastal cliff walk that runs for 20 kilometers, and you can walk as far or as short as you want. I recommend to walk at least a part of it, because the changing views of the Cliffs of Moher are truly a spectacular sight on the Wild Atlantic Way.
Dogs on a lead are welcome to enjoy the Cliffs of Moher, with the exception of inside the Cliffs of Moher Experience Center and the O’Brien Tower. There’s even a doggy pit stop station with water to stay hydrated.
If you’re visiting independently like us (not on a tour), aim for visiting early in the morning or in the evening. The peak hours when tour buses arrive are from 11am – 4pm. Outside the peak hours is the most enjoyable time to visit as the path is narrow and can get crowded.
The Burren: Home to the Oldest Archaeological Monuments in Ireland
Located just 30 minutes from the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren National Park is one of Ireland’s most unique landscapes. The name quite literally means “rocky place” and the vast Burren really does look otherworldly. May just happens to be one of the best times to visit when the wildflowers are in bloom, painting the rocky landscape with strokes of pinks, blues and purples.
The Burren is also home to one of the densest concentrations of archaeological remains in Ireland, including megalithic tombs and Bronze Age farmsteads and field walls. You’ll also find the oldest dated megalithic monument in Ireland in the Burren. Called Poulnabrone Dolmen, the megalithic portal tomb dates back to 5800 BC.
The Burren National Park is free to visit and is dog-friendly. Dogs just need to stay on a lead as the Burren is a fragile ecosystem and there is wildlife like hares, wild goats, voles and other animals.
Fanore Beach: Sand Dunes on the Edge of the Burren
While crowds flock to the nearby Cliffs of Moher, few continue down the coast to gorgeous Fanore Beach at the edge of the Burren. It’s another of Ireland’s Blue Flag Beaches, meaning it is recognized for its swimming quality and is life guarded in season.
The golden arc of sand is part of the dune system and where the Caher River flows out in to the Atlantic. The picturesque beach is strewn with limestone boulder that were transported by melting glaciers and ice sheets that once covered Ireland and dropped over 15,000 years ago on the Burren and the beach.
Fanore Beach is also really easy to access. There’s a huge parking area just off the R477, and then at the end of the parking area is a short boardwalk and staircase descending down to the expansive beach.
Fanore Beach is dog-friendly with some restrictions. From May 15 – September 15, dogs are restricted from Fanore Beach between 11am – 6pm.
O’Donohues Pub is practically across the road from Fanore Beach and is known for their fish and chips, which we found to be very good. There’s just a handful of picnic tables outside, which are dog-friendly.
County Mayo
Clare Island: the Famous Home of Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley
Clare Island was, for us, the absolute highlight of our Wild Atlantic Way road trip. Located just 6 kilometers (3.5 miles) off the west coast of County May, Clare Island is famous as the 16th century pirate queen Gráinne O’Malley.
A distinctly treeless island, the sparsely beautiful land, towering cliffs and white sand beaches make it an alluring island to explore. There’s a population of just 160 people, and the island is mostly unspoiled. But it crowned with another of Ireland’s most beautiful and must-see lighthouses. It’s the privately owned Clare Island Lighthouse, which after being decommissioned after 159 years of continuous service was restored and turned in to a luxury B&B.
And the dog-friendly Clare Island Lighthouse is where we spent our most magical stay of our Ireland road trip. Entirely enclosed and walled in, Coco had the full run of the lighthouse and grounds to explore. Dogs can even climb the lighthouse tour, which just happens to be the absolute best place to watch the incredible sunset over Clew Bay.
Walking or biking is the primary activity on Clare Island, and there’s a lot to see. You can visit the blue flag Clare Island Beach or make the trek to the sheltered cove for a swim, see Granuaile’s Castle where Grace O’Malley lived, visit the Clare Island Abbey and see the megalithic tomb dating back 4000 years.
Westport House: One of Ireland’s Most Beautiful Historic Homes
Westport House is one of Ireland’s most beautiful historic homes and is considered one of Ireland’s national treasures. It was built by and lived in by the Browne family for over 300 years before the Hughes family, another local and historic family, bought Westport House in 2017. The 18th century Palladian mansion and 400-acre estate is open to the public, and it’s a beautiful place for a walk with your dog.
While dogs are not allowed inside Westport House itself for the guided tour, dogs are more than welcome on the estate grounds on a lead. It is free to visit and walk the estate grounds, and locals love to walk their dogs here. If you are at least two people, you can also take turns on the self-guided tour of the house.
There’s also a variety of food trucks open year round, giving you dog-friendly dining options on the Westport House estate grounds.
County Donegal
Narin-Portnoo Strand: A Gem in the Heart of Donegal
Stretching over 2 kilometers in length, Narin-Portnoo Strand is one of the most beautiful beaches of Donegal and a must-see on the Wild Atlantic Way. It’s a beach renowned for excellent surfing conditions.
You also want to be sure to drive up the road above the beach for panoramic views of Gweebarra Bay, the snaking beach and the surrounding mountains.
Narin-Portnoo Strand is dog-friendly with some restrictions. From June 1 – September 15, dogs are only allowed in dog-friendly zones between 11am – 7pm.
There is also a year round dog beach called Dooey Beach if you make about a 20 minute drive around the bay. It is accessed by a narrow country road and quite off-the-beaten-path.
Doe Castle: Historical Stronghold of Clan tSuibhne
Doe Castle sits on an inlet of Sheephaven Bay in County Donegal and is famous as the medieval stronghold of the Scots-Irish MacSweeneys (Clan tSuibhne). The fortress was built in the 1420s and for nearly 200 years served as home, refuge and bastion for at least 13 MacSweeney chiefs.
Of course, like many castles and places in Ireland, there’s a tale about Doe Castle. Verona may have had Romeo and Juliet, but Doe Castle had its own starcrossed lovers: Turlogh and Aileen. And the tale about their tragic love is written in song by Níall Mac Giolla Brigde. Aileen’s father imprisoned, tortured and killed the Gaelic Turlogh when he discovered his daughter’s love affair. She saw her father kill Turlogh from the top of the circular tower, and jumped to her death in agony. Local fisherman have been known to tell a tale of seeing a phantom boat being rowed by ghost lovers in Sheephaven Bay.
The grounds of Doe Castle are open year round and it is free to explore as long as the lock is unlocked. More likely than not, you’ll have Doe Castle completely to yourself to explore. Visitors are welcome to enter through the gate and take a self-guided tour using the information panels placed around the partially ruined castle.
Fanad Head Lighthouse: One of the Most Beautiful Lighthouses in the World
Standing between idyllic Lough Swilly and Mulroy Bay, Fanad Head Lighthouse is a Wild Atlantic Way highlight. It’s not only one of the most beautiful lighthouses of Ireland, but was also voted one of the most beautiful lighthouses in the world. First lit on Saint Patrick’s Day 1817, Fanad Head Lighthouse is still a working lighthouse today.
Though a working lighthouse, visitors can take a guided tour to learn about the history and climb to the top to see the functioning light and views of the surrounding area. Fanad Head Lighthouse is dog-friendly and well-behaved dogs can join the guided tour. However, there is a ladder you have to climb to reach the top of the tower, so dogs cannot make the climb to the top. If you are at least two adults, the guide will allow you to take turns climbing the tower while one person stays with your dog.
You can also stay at Fanad Head Lighthouse with a choice of three different restored light keepers homes. And the accommodation is dog-friendly.
Great Pollet Sea Arch: Ireland’s Largest Sea Arch
Great Pollet Sea Arch is Ireland’s largest sea arch and a natural wonder that was created by the wind and waves of the Atlantic over thousands of years. Just a few minutes drive from Fanad Head Lighthouse, you don’t want to miss this window to the sea located on a totally unspoiled stretch of coastline.
There’s a large parking area, and then you walk down a quiet road for around 500 meters to the pathway to Great Pollet Sea Arch. The pathway leading down to the sea is a bit steep, but there are benches placed along the fenced in path to have a rest along the way. At the end of the pathway, you do need to climb over a stile to access the rocky beach and you may have to carry your dog over.
