With some 4000 pagodas to visit in just a 20 mile square radius at the Bagan archaeological site, how do you ever decide which ones are worthy of a visit? After ballooning over Bagan and noting some of the pagodas we wanted to see, we set out from our hotel on our e-bikes with a map and a plan. There are so many, that you do honestly get “pagoda’d out” after a bit and like churches in Europe, they can all sort of start to look the same. Dark, a Buddha, and local hawkers trying to selling you their wears. So we’ve sorted through our thousands of photos we took and put together our list of the 10 Must See Bagan Temples we found most interesting.
1. Sein Nyet Sister Temples
These are the Sein Nyet Sister Temples, with the elder sister, Sein Nyet Ama, built in the 12th century. Sein Nyet Ama is a typical square temple with four entrances. The younger sister is Sein Nyet Nyima. We liked that we had the Sisters practically to ourselves and that they were slightly overgrown with grass around them.
2. Shwesandaw Pagoda
Shwesandaw Pagoda is very crowded at sunrise because it’s a great place to take advantage of the view over the surrounding temples. But just a few hours later, the crowds dissipate and you can take your time climbing the steep steps. It’s said to be one of the first pagodas built by Anawrahta, the father of the Burmese nation, and was built in 1057. Situated outside of the city walls and along with four other pagodas, it provides spiritual protection for Bagan.
3. Thatbyinnyu Temple
Built in 1144, Thatbyinnyu is the tallest of the Bagan monuments at 61 meters high. It’s adjacent to the much busier Ananda Temple, so again we found we had the temple practically to ourselves to explore.
4. AnandaTemple
Built in 1091, Ananda Temple was fully restored after an earthquake in 1975. The spires were guilded in 1990 for the 900th anniversary of the temple. Entering the temple is like entering Disney World though. The location is convenient for the bus tours (what happened or horse and cart or bike as the only means of transportation in Bagan?) to unload and a market is also set up. Once you bypass all of that though, the courtyard is an extremely peaceful place to sit and admire the temple’s exterior.
Ananda Temple has four Buddhas adorned with gold leaf and each faces a specific direction to represent attainment of the state of Nirvana. They each have their own name. As pictured above from left to right, Gotama faces west, Kakusandha faces north, Konagamana (the fifth of the seven ancient Buddhas) faces east, and Kassapa faces south. A local Burmese will happily tell you all about them for a dollar or two.
5. Sulamani Temple
You enter the red-brick Sulamani Temple through a gateway and it’s like entering another world as you walk the pathway to the entrance. It’s one of the most visited temples, so is another favorite of the hawkers. They’ll quit pestering you for a dollar and in return give you a tour. The temple has frescoes, though all but the ones on the south have been badly damaged because of their exposure to the elements. Because of the vaulted openings, the light filtering in this temple is lovely.
6. Thambula Temple
The Thambula Temple was built by Queen Thambula in 1255. Unlike many of the single story temples, Thambula is actually really well lit and you can easily see the Chinese influences in the Buddhas and murals.
7. Dhammayangyi Temple
Dhammayangyi Temple was built by the tyrant King Narathu during his three year reign. From a distance, or ballooning above, the temple looks like an Egyptian pyramid and it’s the most massive in size structure in Bagan. Locals refer to it to the haunted temple and think it is haunted with the sins of the ruthless King Narathu who killed his own father, brother, and queen. Others think there are hidden treasures behind the blocked up walls. The temple is also home to the rare double Buddha statues.
8. Gawdawpalin Temple
Gawdawpalin Temple was built in 1175 by King Narapatisithu. Legend has it that the King has committed a terrible crime against his ancestors and as punishment went blind. Brahmen astrologers advised the King to make amends by making idols of his ancestors and placing them on thrones. The King worshiped these idols and begged for forgiveness. Miraculously he eventually regained his sight. The pagoda had other secrets besides healing powers; after the 1975 earthquake a secret passage was revealed. Mysterious!
9. Unknown Temple
That’s not actually the name of it and we have no idea the name. But we liked this one which is another great for climbing and is uniquely shaped from most of the others.
10. Pyathatgyi Temple
Pyathatgyi Temple is the last great construction of the dynasty of Bagan, so its a fitting place to end your day touring the temples and take in the incredible sunset. Read more about the Bagan sunset experience.
Know Before You Go
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Devlin Madden-Perdue says
Looking at your shot from the Shwesandaw Pagoda, I can’t help but think, why must ancient peoples make everything so damn steep!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Right? Not only is it incredibly steep, the height of each step is so tall that I had to use the railing to help pull myself up each one. And Burmese people aren’t tall people now. It’s just amazing they could even build such temples – and so quickly – back then.
Jonathan says
In Angkor Wat, I was told that such staircase was built because it would be rude to just walk in or to the top of a holy place. All should be on their fours, almost like bowing low/keeping oneself low and move forward to enter. Simple belief and yet, people of such olden days have built to ensure that. Magnificent indeed.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Very interesting, Jonathan! Whatever the purpose, it’s amazing they could construct such temples back then and that they outlast even modern buildings today.
Lisa says
Jonathan – we were told something similar by a guide in Angkor Wat. Not an exact quote but roughly, that the way to heaven is hard and you must work to be worthy.
Frank says
Great post, fantastic photos! A place that I really want to go. Yeah, agree with Devlin – maybe they had small feet so going up and down not such a big deal? But I’ve had vertigo going up some ruins…
Frank (bbqboy)
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Bagan is one of our favorite places we’ve been, so definitely go if you can Frank! Though climbing the temples isn’t going to be fun if you get vertigo.
Michele {Malaysian Meanders} says
I imagine that I would also be overwhelmed by the sheer number of temples in Bagan, also. Getting an overview via balloon ride is an excellent idea. The temples that you highlight seem to be simultaneously both different and similar. The ones that have less of a crowd are the ones that I think I would like the best.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Even if you had many days, I think there are so many that you’d still want to choose the ones you really wanted to see. It’s like pagoda overload going in and out one after another. And we did enjoy the less crowded ones more so than the most popular with tourists. That said, Bagan is incredibly beautiful and not to be missed.
Brad Bernard says
Great Post! Fantastic pictures. I just loved Bagan. With that many temples, it felt like I was discovering them for the first time.
Question: what are e-bikes? I know tourists aren’t allowed to drive motorbikes, but is there a better way to get around than peddling through the sand traps?
Jennifer Dombrowski says
e-bikes are electric bikes. They were just a few months old when we visited. We didn’t pedal traditional bicycles, but you still have to pedal the e-bike, it just has power to help you along. They weren’t the best on the really sandy roads either. I got off an pushed it a couple of times, but on the main paved roads it’s like zipping along on a scooter. So I’d say definitely better than the regular bikes.
Yangon Guide says
Thank your for your interesting blog about my country
myanmar tour says
I like the number 9 in your article. For over 2000 temples and pagodas, Bagan has so much to offer for any visitor who expect an off beaten track experience.
Janusz says
Hi,
I think its a little mistake in your Sulamani Paya temple photo with Tim from a terrace of small pagoda roof. The temple behind you is a Htilominio Temple. I am sure, because I took the same picture yesterday☺
Happy New Year 2017☺
Janusz&Marta Poland
Kaung Myat Oo says
No.9 is Buu Lal Thi
I’m from Myanmar that’s why I know
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Excellent! Thank you for letting us know the name, Kaung.
Paula says
Thank you for the useful information. I visited all of them.
Sorin says
Thatbyinnyu Temple is one of my favourite temples in Bagan too (my favourite list is here: https://myanmarvels.com/bagan-temples/) In the past years many temples started to have signs & name so now it’s a bit easier to find and name it!