The walled Etruscan town of Volterra is one of Tuscany’s most evocative hilltop towns, yet it was relatively unknown to tourists until the Twilight series, but fans might be disappointed to learn that the movie scenes were actually filmed nearly 70 miles away in Montepulciano. Volterra was one of the 12 Etruscan power centers from the 4th – 6th centuries BC and its medieval center remains one of the best preserved in all of Italy. Even still, Volterra is visited by far fewer tourists than nearby San Gimignano and worth a day trip when visiting Tuscany. Here’s our recommendations for five free things to do in Volterra:
1. Visit the Piazza dei Priori
You don’t have to be a Twilight fan (we’ve never read the books or seen the movies) to appreciate the beauty of the 13th century Palazzo dei Priori. It’s the oldest town hall in Tuscany, though the tower is not completely original. The top half of the tower was destroyed in Volterra’s last earthquake and then rebuilt in 1846.
2. Admire the Roman Theater
Located just outside the city walls, the Roman Theater was built in the 1st century AD and financed by two members of the Caecina family. Though only open March – November, if visiting in winter the theater can be viewed from a terrace inside the walled city. The vaulted corridors that served to connect the stage to the external vestibules and the remains of the porticus post scaenam, a roofed area located behind the theater where the spectators gathered during intermission, are clearly visible from above.
3. Be wowed by the ceiling in Duomo
We visit a lot of churches on our travels throughout Europe, and to be honest, it’s been quite a while since the interior of one really wowed us. The Duomo itself dates back to 1120 but the interior was completely modified in 1584 when the enthusiastic Bishop Serguidi was more than happy to adhere to the new reforms stated by the Council of Trent. It was designed by Francesco Capriani, carved by Jacopo Pavolini of Castelfiorentino, and gilded by Fulvo della Tuccia. Be sure to look up at the gilded and richly decorated colorful ceiling.
4. Window shop for alabaster
The working of alabaster is an ancient tradition in Volterra and the deposits of alabaster in the city’s surroundings are considered to be some of the most precious in the world. The numerous alabaster shops around the city are like a museum of beautiful works. Admire things like bowls, sculptures, picture frames, and boxes handcrafted by artisans still following the traditional methods of working alabaster that have been passed down through generations.
5. Pose for a picture in Porto all’Arco
The medieval wall surrounding Volterra was built in the 13th century and six gates allow entry through the wall into the center of the city. This wall was a reconstruction of the ancient Etruscan walls that once surrounded Volterra and a bit of Volterra’s Etruscan past remains at Porto all’Arco. Three lion heads carved in the stone crown the gate, though they are nearly unrecognizable in its state today.
Here a bonus item for things to do in Volterra, though not free as the other five on our list:
6. Eat Tuscan specialties at Trattoria Bada Ganzo
We randomly picked Trattoria Bada Ganzo while wandering around Volterra and looking for a place to have lunch. We couldn’t have found a better pick! The menu is filled with Tuscan specialties like pappardelle with ragu of hare and taglioni with sauce of wild boar (both are delicious). Start out with the fondue of Volterra cheese served with crusty bruschetti and compliment it all with a liter of the house Tuscan red wine.
Via Dei Marchesi 13, Volterra
Kay says
Thanks for the list. Volterra looks amazing in your photos, Jennifer! I wish I could travel Italy a little more. One day…
Love arches and bridges. Porto all’Arco would be my first sight to visit in Volterra 🙂
jenny says
I’m very envious of you being able to visit all these fabulous places. We visited Volterra many, many years ago but I think it’s time we went back! Great list!
Andrea says
The look of this Duomo is similar to the one in Florence – I love the look of both!
Freya says
Volterra looks very beautiful, I love all the culture and history.
I would also love to have a taglioni with sauce of wild boar right now 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Me too, Freya! Wild boar is so delicious and somehow it always just tastes better in Tuscany!
Linda Bibb says
Having just finished a fiction book based around ancient Etruscan life (The Wedding Shroud), I find the culture fascinating. Thanks for sharing Volterra with us. I love off-the-beaten-path sites like this.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Off-the-beaten-path Italy is the best. You really can see and experience La Dolce Vita and there is a huge difference in the food too.
Ali says
Looks like a great town to explore! But serious, you’re killing me with all the delicious-looking Italian food lately, I want to be there NOW so I can eat it all!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
It’s so nice when we travel outside of our region just to get even a little variety. This was the first time we had an Italian fondue and it was really good!
Matt Wiesman says
Volterra is a town to live intensely, to discover little by little with its atmosphere, its contrasts, the pulse of a civilisation and a culture that makes it unique and unrepeatable.
Kimberley says
We have visited Volterra many times but I have learnt a few things tonight reading this post! I have walked through the archways countless times but (embarrassingly) have not noticed the lions before. We love Trattoria Bada Ganzo too, as well as the Pizzeria, La Mangiatoia. It’s one of my favourite Tuscan towns, lots of happy memories here.