Bordeaux is synonymous with the finest wines in the world, but it’s a city that is also fast becoming a haven of culinary delights. With star chefs like Gordon Ramsay, who opened his second Bordeaux restaurant earlier this year, and an influx of young, innovative chefs, the restaurant scene has come to life. It wasn’t always that way, though. I seemed to have moved to Bordeaux at just the right time when the Port of the Moon is becoming a culinary powerhouse in France. And I honestly couldn’t be more pleased to regularly receive invitations to dine in the best that Bordeaux has to offer. It’s a tough job, but someone has to do it and so off I went to the Le Saint-James Bordeaux.
Le Saint-James Bordeaux is located in the quaint little village of Bouliac. Though it’s just a 15-minute drive outside of Bordeaux, and also easily reached on public transportation, I hadn’t yet ventured to Bouliac.
I immediately saw why this village is called the “Balcony of Bordeaux”. Situated on the right bank of the Garonne, Bouliac looks over the river and Bordeaux’s unmistakable monuments like the spire of Saint-Michel. There’s just no other way to describe the view but as absolutely breathtaking.
Bordeaux’s Smallest Winery
Le Saint-James isn’t just a luxury hotel, it’s also Bordeaux smallest vineyard. Technically speaking, the vineyard at Bordeaux-Merignac Airport is the smallest but they don’t harvest and make wine from their grapes. Le Saint-James does and I got to look at their on property winery.
Merlot grapes are grown at Le Saint-James and, depending on the harvest yield, between 400 and 600 bottles of Bordeaux wine are produced for each vintage. The guests are invited to take part in the harvest, and in such a small vineyard it takes just a few hours to harvest the whole lot.
I was supposed to return to take part in Le Saint-James’ harvest on October 1, but we found out our dog had cancer only a few days before and would be undergoing a major surgery the next week. I opted to miss the wine harvest and barbecue party to stay home and spend time with her, as we were anticipating an ominous outcome. The harvest will happen again next year…
The grapes are all sorted, crushed and finally go in to Le Saint-James tanks. There are just two and that’s all that is needed to produce the exclusive bottles of Le Saint-James Bordeaux wine.
When we first walked in to the winery, I immediately saw the single oak barrel. Running through my mind was that it must be a very special barrel. No, this barrel is Le Saint-James only barrel! The production is so small and exclusive, just this one barrel and a smaller half barrel used to top up the angel share of wine that evaporates during the aging process are all that are needed.
The wine is bottled just before the next year’s harvest and aged further in the bottle, just as with other Bordeaux wines. I even got to try a glass of the recently bottled 2015 vintage, which was already quite good. 2015 was an excellent year and the quality of the wine was undeniable. I’d love to try this 2015 vintage again in four or five years when it’s really ready for drinking.
Le Saint-James Gourmet Restaurant
Bordeaux wines are best appreciated when paired with food, and so after touring the vineyard and winery I sat down to lunch at Le Saint-James gourmet restaurant. With Bordelaise Chef Nicholas Magie at the helm, the gourmet restaurant has 1 Michelin star and a reputation for an innovative spin on the local Bordelaise cuisine.
I loved the creative presentation of the amuse-bouche. Presented on several small plates that resembled a Japanese garden, there was a bright orange carrot and orange mousse on Parmesan shortbread, watermelon with smoked eel on spoons atop a bed of grass and fried monkfish served with squid ink mayonnaise set among a zen stone garden.
With Bordeaux’s position so close to the Atlantic Ocean, the freshest fish is available and Chef Magie showcased it with my tasting menu. Mackerel with two kinds of peppers, a smoked almond and two kinds of caviar followed. I think some molecular gastronomy was done to make the one kind of the caviar attached along an edible vine, making it resemble a bunch of grapes.
Boeuf de Bazas is a very special breed of cattle developed from the Aquitaine and Spanish cattle. To be certified as Boeuf de Bazas, the cattle must be raised in a very specific and free range way. The organic beef has a unique taste and is on par in France with the quality of Kobe or Wagyu beef.
I tried my first Boeuf de Bazas as a lightly smoked tartare with marinated sardines and served with grilled shishito peppers, red pepper sorbet and drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy and olive oil. It was divine.
The only dish of my tasting menu that I didn’t really care for was the red mullet with lemon verbena and spider crab. I’m just very particular with the types of fish I eat and the red mullet was a little fishier tasting than I like. The roasted squash served alongside, however, was delicious.
Surprisingly, my favorite dish was something that I probably wouldn’t have ordered had I been selecting a la carte. The pigeon breast in a blackberry glaze and served with blackberries and blackberry cream was just an incredible pairing. I had it paired with a glass of the 2009 Le Saint-James Bordeaux wine, exclusively served at the restaurant.
This is France, after all, so a cheese course followed. It’s never just any plate of cheese, but this one featured some of my favorite things: lightly fried zucchini flowers stuffed with chèvre and tarragon. There’s just something that tastes better about French melon and there were sweet balls of melon alongside, which perfectly complimented the slightly bittersweet tarragon sorbet.
There’s also just never one dessert course at a Michelin-starred restaurant, though these were perfect with the fresh raspberries making it feel a bit lighter.
Coffee and canelés, a crusty custard like pastry that hails from Bordeaux, finished off the meal. It was served in the garden to enjoy the last warm days before the Fall truly set it.
Le Saint-James Cooking School
Le Saint-James offers a variety of cooking classes at their state-of-the-art Cooking School. While I didn’t take any classes on this particular visit, they are offered in English and I’m looking forward to returning to learn a few French cooking techniques.
I did peek in on a cooking class that was going on during my visit and everyone was having fun preparing dishes. Of course, the best part is when you get to enjoy the fruits of your labor after.
Le Saint-James Hotel
The hotel has been around since 1989. It was designed by the famous French architect Jean Nouvel, who designed the exterior after the tobacco drying barns of the Aquitaine region.
The 18 rooms and suites are a modern minimalist design. Not exactly cozy and making you never want to leave, the panoramic views of the vineyards and Bordeaux beyond do just the opposite – entice you out to experience the wonderful wine and culture in this heavenly little slice of France.
As I’ve mentioned previously, a pool is a bit hard to come by in Bordeaux and the one at Le Saint-James is fabulous. Surrounded by the vines with the stunning view, I want to spend all my summer days there.
The hotel also has both a permanent art collection and temporary exhibitions. The sculptures in the fruit orchard at the front of the hotel are now part of the permanent collection and quite interesting. Several reminded me a bit of the figures from Edvard Munch’s Scream paintings, which I quite like.
The original 1989 design by Nouvel has been maintained and I felt the rooms could use a little sprucing up. That noted, the view certainly cannot be beat. With the location just 15-minutes drive from Bordeaux or 45-minutes via public transportation, Bordeaux is at the hotel’s doorstep and an excellent alternative to staying right in the city.
Know Before You Go
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Greg says
The food looks absolutely delicious! Also I only recently discovered how good Bordeaux wine can be. Every time I tried it it was a bit too heavy for me, but I found a bottle that is lighter and delicious.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
The key to drinking Bordeaux is to enjoy it with food. Since it’s a red blend, it does tend to be a bit of a heavy wine if you don’t pair it with food. The proper pairings will really enhance the flavors too.
John says
I’ve been to France many times but I’ve yet to venture down to Bordeaux and its definitely on my list so this post is super helpful! That cooking class followed by some sun at that pool would be such a good time 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Bordeaux is overlooked by so many visitors to France. It’s a shame too, because there is a lot to see and do!
Indrani says
A combination of food and travel is too good. I am a big fan of this kind of experience.
I see you have added good wine to it. 🙂
The setting too looks good, especially the poolside.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
I have yet to have bad wine in Bordeaux. 🙂
Kerri says
Jennifer this whole area is epic. I absolutely love all things France, and the Bordeaux region and it’s wonderful to find such a special place. These types of wineries/vineyards are the ones I love….small and full of rich stories. One barrel – how amazing. The food looks stunning, so artistic….eating with your eyes is definitely the way here I would imagine, based on those photos. It looks like a terrific place to have a cooking school, the accommodation whilst modern is obviously right at home in this location. All round, wonderful review and I would gladly spend some time here. Sorry to hear about your dog too, they are very special to us dog owners.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Thanks Kerri! Emma is actually doing quite well after her surgery. Another great thing about Bordeaux is how much the Bordelaise love their dogs and the excellent specialist we found.
Nadia says
Talk about food as art at Le Saint-James Gourmet Restaurant! The dishes looked amazing. I love Merlot blends. When the children are older and we can farm them off to relatives – this area is first on my list to visit. Taking part in wine making would be amazing!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Then Bordeaux is definitely the wine region for you, Nadia. All Bordeaux contains Merlot.
Rosemarie says
Oh wow this looks like a lovely romantic destination. I love the colour of the Red mullet, looks very appetizing.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Le Saint-James is definitely a romantic spot! It’s perfect for a couple’s getaway.
Drew says
Wow, that is an impressive tasting menu. Love the plating, especially the amuses. I haven’t heard of this restaurant, but we are planning to head to Bordeaux area soon, so definitely want to check it out.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Let us know when you’re in Bordeaux! We’re happy to give you our local tips and recommendations.
Fiona says
What a fabulous place for a short stay! I love this type of hotel, where the food is so great despite being in the middle of the country. Only in France!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
It’s not in the country, really. It’s located in a cute village just outside of the city of Bordeaux. But with the vineyard and gardens surrounding you, you forget that you’re actually in an urban setting.
Veronika says
The Wine in Bordeaux’ bust have been amazing. I love all kind of wine tasting and the special snacks that some with the wine. It must not always be the cheese! I am sure you had good time, family wineries are usually great.
Carmen says
There’s nothing I’d love more than to visit a winery in Bordeaux. This one looks beautiful, thanks for sharing. Happy travels 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
There are nearly 10,000 to chose from in the Bordeaux wine region! This one is quite special though, since you can only try their wine at the restaurant.
Mindi Hirsch says
We spent some time in Burgundy a few years back, which was wonderful, but Bordeaux appears to be even more spectacular. We definitely, absolutely need to visit Bordeaux soon. When we do, we definitely want to check out Le Saint James.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
I’m headed to Burgundy for the wine auctions in a few weeks. It will be interesting to compare the two wine regions.
Carol says
What a place to move to! I’d love to try a Saint-James Bordeaux – what an opportunity. I can’t believe they only have one oak barrel. This is one area in France I haven’t been to, and I’m super psyched to get there, especially with all the new restaurants and wonderful wineries.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
At first when we entered the little winery I thought the one barrel was some special year still aging. I couldn’t believe that they can produce wine with just one barrel! That’s a first for me.
Evelyne says
What a gorgeous place all around what what a meal, And so cool to see the smallest vineyard in Bordeaux, what a treat. Sending you a hug for you and your dog, I have been through cancer with pets twice. Enjoy the precious moments.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Thanks Evelyne! We just lost our nearly 17-year old cat to kidney failure earlier this year. It would have been too soon and too much to lose our dog too.
Prateek says
Even though I am not much of a wine person, I love to take trips to vineyards to see the process of wine production and the sheer amount of effort that goes into making wine, pretty detailed science involved. The food looks amazing , especially the pigeon breast!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
The pigeon breast was my favorite of the dishes. It was prepared very well, too.
Christina says
What a wonderful place to discover! I could definitely see myself here, especially taking those cooking classes!
The dinner looked fantastic, but I would bet that I know which dish would be my favorite: the zucchini flowers stuffed with chèvre! Two of my most favorite things to eat!
Thanks for the post, I’d love to visit one day!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
The zucchini flowers with chèvre were to die for! I’m going to have to try to make them at home.
Terry says
Wow! Everything looks great. Grapes! I like it…
anto says
I really love Bordeaux wines and I have heard the area is amazing from some fellow travellers. I’d love to visit someday!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
It is an amazing area and still pretty off-the-beaten-path for most travelers to France.
Aida says
Oooh, I haven’t been to this part of Bordeaux! Time to book a flight back! 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
When was the last time you were in Bordeaux? If it’s even been just a year, I think you’ll find a lot has changed!
kate says
Oh my gosh, what a great place to visit! I will have to put this on my travel list!
Mansoureh says
This place is awesome. wow look at the bed …
Carrie says
Wow! That is amazing that they only used to one barrel in their wine production! What I wouldn’t give for just a sip of that Bordeaux! 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
I couldn’t believe it! It was almost the set-up of a home wine maker, but yet high quality Bordeaux wine. The look on my face when they showed me THE barrel must have been priceless.
Allison Wallace says
We still haven’t made it to Bordeaux and this makes us even more excited to go. We’re definitely putting Le St James on our wine bucket list!
Amber says
This looks amazing! We haven’t explored much of the French wine country, and Bordeaux is on the top of my list!
Robin Renken says
This looks like such a fantastic place. Beautiful views, beautiful food, and wine creating in such small quantities, what an amazing stay!
Andrew Welch says
These pairings of stunning winery with spectacular restaurant are incredible. We recently visited the winery Marques de Tomares in Rioja with lunch at Alameda in the little town of Fuenmayor, Spain. Thanks for introducing us to Le Saint-James and the restaurant!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Le Saint-James is such a wonderful spot in Bordeaux. It’s a must if you come to visit.
Eva Kisgyorgy says
We will soon have a direct flight to Bordeaux, and I came across this blog post – such a nice one:-)