Sirmione is a fortified town that juts out onto Lake Garda on the Sirmio Peninsula. Having never been to Sirmione even though it is a mere two hours away, and trying to travel a little more closer to home these days, we decided to pay a visit. We mainly wanted to see the Grotto of Catullus, the Roman ruins said supposedly to be that of the Roman poet Catullus’ country villa.
Sirmione is said to be the Pearl of Lake Garda and it is definitely a beautiful lakeside town. We entered the old town via the bridge leading through the 13th century Scaliger Castle, used by the Scaliger fleet and a rare example of medieval port fortification. The Scaliger were a noble family of Lords of Verona and the fortification was part of the defensive network surrounding Verona. Northern Italy had a very turbulent past, though the first military venture onto the Sirmio Peninsula was to wipe out the population of Sirmione, who were heretic Cathars. Some 2,000 Cathars were burned at the stake in the Arena of Verona.
Aside from the castle, the main sight of Sirmione is the Grotto of Catullus. Contrary to what the name grotto, meaning cave, would imply, the Grotto of Catullus is not a cave. And though the Grotto of Catullus is said to the be the country villa of Roman poet Catullus, he never actually lived here. Catullus dies in 54BC and the ruins of the villa are dated to around 150AD.
The site got its name because it resembled a series of partially collapsed caves when it was discovered in the 15th century. It was Napoleon who carried out the first studies of the villa and excavation and restoration didn’t begin until around 1940. The Soprintendenza Archeologica della Lombardia purchased the entire site in 1948 and studies and excavations are still being done to learn more about the villa.
There are signs in multiple languages including English explaining the layout of the villa as you traverse the site. Visitors are free to walk around and through the various rooms and buildings of the villa, many of which were three stories high. The olive grove also has wonderful views of the pier, small beach, and lake below. Note that there is no beach access from the grotto though.
The Lido delle Bionde beach is reached in about 15 minutes from the center of Sirmione. The beach is made of large, smooth clay rocks and the water is said to be the clearest of all of Lake Garda.
Agriturismo Corte Fattori
Where to Stay
Hotels in Sirmione, especially in summer can be expensive and hard to find availability. We stayed just a few kilometers away at Agriturismo Corte Fattori. It was very quiet, had an above ground swimming pool to cool off in, and the room had air conditioning. Simple, yet lovely. Breakfast is served on the patio and is included. In high season the prices is €75 per night.
Pretty location, but pricey!
Where to Eat
We found all of the restaurants right in Sirmione overpriced. Calamari and fish dishes were more than double the prices anywhere else, though pizzas were reasonable at around €9 each. We chose to skip the overpriced restaurants for a fresh, locally produced meal at Cascina Capuzza just a few kilometers away.
Nothing artisan about this gelato shop, except the name!
Also beware of the gelato shops! We really had to hunt for one that didn’t feature bins of fluffy, sky-high gelato. “Poofy” gelato is the first sign it is made from a mix and not real gelato. Also be on the lookout for unnatural colors, like mint green mint gelato – mint should actually be white. (For more artisan gelato spotting tips and other tips, check out our post on JohnnyJet.com about 12 Things You Never Knew About Italy.)
Know Before You Go
- The Grotto of Catullus is open from 8:30am – 7:30pm in summer and from 8:30am – 5pm October 15 – February 28. Closed Mondays. Entry is €4 per person and dogs on leashes are allowed.
- It is approximately a 1 kilometer walk from the old town to the entrance of the ruins. In summer there is an electric train that runs between the thermal spa and the entrance to the ruins.
- Sirmione is easily reached by car from the A4 or A22 motorways. *You’ll need a car if you wish to visit the agriturismi noted above. Sirmione can also be reached by a short taxi or bus ride from nearby train stations at Peschiera (11km) or at Desenzano (10km).
- Parking is available in a lot near the entrance to the old town and costs around €2 per hour.
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YJ @ thefancyvoyager says
Beautiful! I have always been fascinated by historical sites!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Roman ruins are really neat to see. We enjoy archaeological sites like this as well.
Stef says
I’ve been to Sirmione during my trip to Lake Garda in 2007. Absolutely loved the city, such a nice scenary!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Oh cool! What time of year did you visit? Our pictures are carefully crafted to not show the crowds. It was more packed than Venice when cruise ships are in port!
Stef says
It was in summer, so really crowded but great nonetheless 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Amazing how just getting even a few kilometers outside a popular town like Sirmione will completely diminish the crowds. Love finding the hidden spots!
Kenin Bassart says
Nice tips, and great pics! I never knew that “poofy” gelato is the bad kind.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Artisan fruit gelato actually isn’t made with any cream and very little sugar, so it is a bit grainy and won’t be spilling over the bins like that. If you see the poofy gelato, run! Run away! It is made from a mix.
Max says
So you are saying that we shoul never visit the u.s.a. were that food is the unsafest in the world
With this comment about the icecreams?
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Who said anything about the US? The comment is about how to identify artisan gelato from mixes in Italy.
Val Dawson says
Beautiful pictures! I am also glad to know that about how to spot real gelato!
Arianwen says
That place is just stunning! And it looks like you had the perfect weather for a bit of strolling around old forts and ruins 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
I think it was around +32C when we were there. It was a bit too hot. I think April or October would actually be a really lovely time to visit!
Frank says
Looks beautiful! Good post, I like all the practical info – I’d definitely go!
Frank (bbqboy)
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Thanks, Frank! Glad to hear you enjoyed it!
Freya Renders says
I’ve never been to Sirmione but you’re making a good case to visit it! The lake looks so serene. It would be lovely to visit the ruins, too.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
I think I’d recommend to visit in April or October. Maybe even winter. It was incredibly hot and the town itself was absolutely packed with tourists. Not many people were at the ruins though.
Derek says
I love posts like this that are chock full o’ useful information — thanks! Plus the impressive photos, something I always love about your blog 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Thanks, Derek! Tim gets credit for most of the photos though.
Rhonda- Travel? Yes Please! says
I wish I wasn’t on a Contiki tour when I visited Sirmione. The boat just dropped us for a few minutes so I didn’t have time to explore The Grotto of Catullus. I just sat around the main part of town. I always feel like I miss out on things when I am on a tour. Thanks for the tips about the gelato…now I know what to look for!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Too bad, Rhonda! The town is pretty and there are some shops, but we thought the ruins were the best part.
Leyla says
I love the lake – and somehow I managed to miss this! Story of my life… Thanks especially for the tip about dogs on a leash. When headed to Italy/France/Switzerland (since I live in France) I usually take my two Dutch Shepherds with me – but only to places dogs are welcome so this definitely goes on my list!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Leyla, your pups would love it! Italy doesn’t have that many dog friendly beaches, but dogs are allowed at the beaches around the lake. We’ll have to meet there sometime for a puppy play date!
Rollan McCleary says
"Sailing Lake Garda is fine, finding love is still better……"
"Catullus Redux: A Complaint".
http://bit.ly/1ci1WMX
Ali says
Looks awesome! I love ruins, and I especially like the castle that first picture.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
You can also visit the inside of the castle. We didn’t for two reasons: we had Emma with us and castles start to look mostly the same inside after you’ve been to a lot of them.
Andrea says
I hate it when EVERYTHING is overpriced in a place…beautiful though!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Right? The food prices were just ridiculous! But we found a great alternative.
Jdomb's Travels says
The good stuff is SO much better!
CMTravelAnd - Holidays, cruises, farms says
Grotto of Catullus, Sirmione and Lake of Garda? I like these pics.