La Serenissima, as the Republic of Venice is known, was anything but serene during the Carnevale di Venezia. At that time Venice was known as the pleasure playground of Europe; a must-stop on The Grand Tour. Carnival was a time that Venetians and visitors alike unabashedly took part in revelry and licentiousness, any cares cloaked by their masks and costumes. Centuries later, Carnival is still Italy’s biggest event. As former seven year residents of a small village near Venice, we went to Carnevale – most years in our own period costumes – every one of those seven years. From a plethora of events to where and what to eat, and even how to put together a costume without needing to refinance your mortgage, we’ve put our experience and knowledge together to help you have a magical experience with our complete guide to Venice Carnival.
History of the Carnevale di Venezia
The history of the Carnival of Venice dates back to 1094, when the Doge Vitale Falier first mentioned the word “carnevale” in a document as a way of describing public amusements. In 1162 the Republic of Venice had defeated Ulrico, Patriarch of Aquileia, in a battle that year and slaughtered a bull and twelve pigs in Piazza San Marco to commemorate the victory. This celebration was around Shrove Tuesday (also known as Fat Tuesday).
Even though the celebration of the defeat of the Patriarch of Aquileia grew larger year after year, Carnevale di Venezia wasn’t officially recorded until 1268. The following year, the Senate declared the day before Lent (Shrove Tuesday) a public holiday.
The Carnival of Venice carried on after that with jugglers, dancers and musicians all entertaining the public. Venetians would eat, drink and be merry before going in to the period of fasting during Lent. This continued until the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1798.
Carnival halted in Venice for nearly two centuries after the Austrians took control of the city in January 1798. Venice Carnival was even outlawed under the fascist government in the 1930s.
It wasn’t until 1979 that the Carnevale di Venezia was revived. Modern day Venetians recognized the potential for Carnival to bring money to the city, and the new 10-day long Carnival of Venice was born. Much like historical re-enactments in the US celebrate the victory of important battles, Carnevale di Venezia recreates a time when the Venetian Republic ruled the trade routes and held an elite place in the world. The lavish parties, costumes, masks, food, music and spectacles all tip their hat to the wealthy Venetian merchants of the past.
Things to Do at Venice Carnival
One of the misconceptions about attending Carnival in Venice is that it’s expensive. It’s not all about extravagant masked balls that do cost a small fortune. From the free shows and costume parades at Piazza San Marco to special video projections and free guided museum tours only happening during this two weeks, there’s a lot of free things happening that make attending the Carnival of Venice a not-to-miss event. Check the official Carnevale di Venezia program for a full list of all the events. We’ve also narrowed down our own favorites from our seven years of experience attending with these top things to do at Venice Carnival.
Il Volo dell’Angelo: Flight of the Angel
The Flight of the Angel, or Il Volo dell’Angelo in Italian, is one of the highlights of Carnevale di Venezia. It’s actually the event that officially kicks off the 10 days of Carnival, and it’s also one that dates back to the original carnivals during the La Serenissima period.
Back in the 16th century during the days of the Republic of Venice, a daring Turkish acrobat caused quite the stir. He had succeeded at a stunt to walk a rope from a boat anchored in front of Piazza San Marco to the top of the bell tower. He reached the balcony of the Palazzo Ducale during his descent, paying homage to the Doge. The crowds were so delighted, that this stunt became a tradition to be repeated by professional tight rope walkers each year on Shrove Thursday (the last Thursday before Lent).
Unfortunately, an acrobat fell to his death during the stunt in 1759 while attempting to fly down a rope at excessive speed. Seeing the crowds’ horror, the Doge outlawed the stunt from the further years that Carnival carried on until the entire event was banned from 1798.
When Carnevale was revived in 1979 after its nearly two centuries of abandonment, this was one tradition that was carried on. Today, the winner of the previous year’s Festa della Marie, a sort of beauty pageant dating back centuries, has the honor of dressing in period costume complimenting the year’s Carnevale theme and descending along a sort of zip line from the bell tower at controlled speed. This event marks the official opening of Carnival.
It’s also the most crowded of any of the free Venice Carnival events. If you don’t make your way to Piazza San Marco early enough, you probably won’t make it in to the square at all because of crowd control. Plan to be in St. Mark’s Square no later than 10am in order to witness the Flight of the Angel, which still takes place at 12 noon on the first Sunday of Carnival.
Note that the Flight of the Angel is cancelled for 2024 due to works in Piazza San Marco.
Costume Parade
Masks are what make the Carnival of Venice so unique. Entire costumes are built around the selection of a unique mask, a tradition that began in the 5th century. Flamboyant and striking masqueraders strut their stuff in Piazza San Marco to the oohs and aahs of the crowds and for a chance at a prize.
Best of all, the masqueraders come from all over the world and anyone can enter. As with how the tradition to wear masks and “mask” your identity and social class began centuries ago, it’s impossible to know if the person under the costume is a Venetian. The daily costume parades are some of the best Venice Carnival free events and perfect for photo opportunities.
The costume parades take place daily during the 10 days of Carnival, with the daily winners being invited to participate in the final parade on the last Sunday.
Enter the Best Mask Contest
Don’t just watch the parades – be in the parades! A daily contest takes place on the stage in Piazza San Marco and it’s completely free to enter. Plus, the mask hides your identity so you can’t feel foolish. And if you need an ounce of courage to get up on that stage in front of the thousands that come to see the masks and costumes, toss back a glass of wine and enjoy the experience.
It’s free to enter. Just download and email the mask contest entry form from the Carnevale di Venezia website.
Venice Carnival Pub Crawl
With a price tag of €500 per person, the masked balls can cost as much to attend as your trip to Venice itself. For some the masked balls, which have a strict dress code and have dinner, dancing and entertainment, are a must-attend event. For us, it was never quite our cup of tea and probably would be most fun with a group of friends all willing to shell out for a party like that. Instead, we often opted for a costumed pub crawl.
The pub crawl, or giro d’ombra as it’s known in Italian, is very Venetian. A centuries old tradition itself, Venetians would move from bacaro to bacaro enjoying cicchetti (Venetian tapas) and a small glass of wine while socializing. Embodying a similar spirit of the ritzy masked balls, a Venice Carnival pub crawl where food, wine and socializing are what it’s all about, is a good alternative at a fraction of the price.
There’s honestly not much going on in the evenings during the Carnival of Venice, so the pub crawl is a great way to spend an evening out. And perhaps it’s the costumes or the wine that make us feel emboldened, but we always met friends we’ve kept in touch with on these pub crawls.
This pub crawl is only available during the 10 days of Carnival. Book the Venice Carnival Pub Crawl here. A cicchetti food tour is an excellent alternative for any time you’re visiting Venice and this Venice food tour by Walks of Italy is an excellent one.
Vivaldi Venice Carnival Concert
A journey back to 18th century Venice isn’t complete without discovering the music from the times when Venice was the pleasure capital of the world. It was a time when concerts, dancing and late-night revelry took place inside Venice’s churches and convents, and classical music was one of life’s indulgences. Venetian-born Antonio Vivaldi, who had been ordained a priest, instead decided to follow his musical passion and is recognized today as one of the greatest Baroque composers. Even Bach studied with Vivaldi and his musical influence spread far and wide.
Though Vivaldi concerts are also a quintessential Venetian experience you can attend any time of the year, there’s special Carnival Vivaldi concerts during the Carnival period. The special Carnival concert takes place in the sumptuously decorated Salone Capitolare, where you’ll most certainly feel as though you’re at the official Venice Carnival dinner show and ball, but again minus the extravagant price tag. The concert lasts about 90 minutes, and it’s another excellent way to spend an evening after dinner in Venice.
The I Musici Veneziani Carnival Concert is only available during the Carnival period. Book the concert here. A Vivaldi concert is a wonderful cultural way to experience for any time you’re visiting Venice and this Vivaldi Four Seasons Concert is the most popular.
Eat Frittelle
The Carnival of Venice is known for a lot of things, though one you might not know about is the fried dough Venetians love to eat. Frittelle, literally meaning fritters, are like a type of fried donut that start showing up a few weeks before the Carnevale period, then disappear just as soon as Carnevale ends.
Frittelle are another tradition from La Serenissima and they were so popular that they were declared the national dessert. They could only be made by an authorized fritoler, and it was a job so exclusive that you could only become a fritoler if your father had been one.
These days frittelle are in just about every pastry shop of Venice from just after the Epiphany on January 6 until Carnival ends, and each will have their own recipe. Frittelle can be filled or not, and dusted with powdered sugar or rolled in cane sugar. The nutella filled ones from Pasticceria Dal Mas are to die for and the rum and chocolate creams ones from Bonifacio are out of this world. Any way you try them, they’re delicious and a special treat you can’t miss during the Carnevale period.
Book a Venice Carnival Activity or Event
How to Dress for Venice Carnival
Wondering what to wear for Venice Carnival?
As masqueraders ourselves for seven years, we assure you that it’s most fun to get in the spirit of things and wear a costume yourself. The tradition of the masks started to hide social status. If you couldn’t identify the wearer of the mask, you couldn’t possibly know his social status. And when you’re in period costume, you’re likely to be mistaken for a Venetian. Or, at the very least, it’s fun to feel like a celebrity for the day while everyone wants a photo with you.
Some of the costumes can cost thousands of dollars – more than your trip to Venice cost in the first place. But there’s no reason to worry. You can easily put together a great period costume for a reasonable price.
My costume cost less than $200, with the biggest expense being the dress. My exact wig and gloves are available on Amazon and a very similar dress is also available on Amazon. My mask was purchased in Venice and is a handmade artisan mask. I accessorized with a gold leather clutch I already had by Jimmy Choo and a string of pearls. For years that were much to cold to wear the dress alone, I also layered a faux fur jacket on top.
Men are a bit easier and the Plague Doctor is a popular choice. This was a very typical mask used not only for costumes in the Republic of Venice; the beak resembles a doctor’s long breathing apparatus which held a sponge doused in vinegar and was thought to prevent contracting the plague while treating patients.
Black dress pants and a white button down shirt might even be items you already have in your wardrobe. Tim ordered a black cape from Amazon, and purchased his mask in Venice and the three-tip hat in Venice.
There’s also places like Ca’ del Sol to rent period dress costumes from in Venice, though you need to plan several months in advance and book your costume. Rentals typically start around €200 for men’s costumes and around €350 for women’s costumes per day. That prices doesn’t include a wig, mask or other accessories.
You definitely don’t have to dress in period dress. Carnival is one big party that fills every crevice of the island and is like a mixture of Mardi Gras and Halloween. While period costumes dominate the scene, pretty much anything goes. People even dress up their dogs. The point is just to dress up and join in the fun.
Your costume can even be as simple as picking up a mask in Venice. There’s also face painters, usually just outside of the Venezia Santa Lucia train station.
Masks from the little carts and tourists shops are inexpensive, but they’re also not made in Venice. If you want a traditional and truly Venetian-made mask, do yourself a favor and head to one of Venice’s mask makers’ shops. Benor Maschere Venezia in the Santa Croce neighborhood makes all of their masks by hand right there in their workshop. Ca’ Macana in the Dorsoduro neighborhood also makes all their masks right there in their workshop, and you can also see the masks being made. Mondonovo Maschere, also in the Dorsoduro, is famous for making masks for Hollywood blockbusters like Eyes Wide Shut.
There’s even Venetian mask making workshops, where you mix the sand and then paint your own mask that you can then take home. You’ll learn a bit about the history of the Carnival masks while you work with an artisan in a mask stop.
Shop Our Costumes
- Marie Antoinette wig
- White satin elbow length gloves
- Venetian Medieval dress
- Faux fur shrug
- Imitation pearl necklace
- Men’s hooded black cape
Where to Eat in Venice
We hate to say it, but it is easier to find bad overpriced food in Venice than it is to find good restaurants serving fresh and quality food. But it doesn’t have to be that way. The biggest rule of thumb is to turn and run in the other direction from any restaurant with someone outside trying to lure you in with a tourist menu and a free bellini. Don’t even look if the menu has pictures on it. And just get up and leave if the menu is in six languages. These are all pretty good indicators that what you’ve about to be served isn’t fresh or authentic.
Some of Venice’s best meals are to be had at the most unassuming of places – tiny bacari that can only hold a dozen people at most and you’d hardly notice if they weren’t throbbing with people. Cicchetti, pronounced “chee-KET-eeh,” are small dishes sold individually and eaten with friends over a glass of wine. Cicchetti bars, or bacari, have a selection and each bar will have its own specialties like Cà D’Oro alla Vedova’s meatballs, which are known as the best meatballs in Venice. Cicchetti typically cost from €1 to a couple of euro a piece, and you can easily select a plate full and have a glass of wine for under €10.
Discover the Real Venice on a Venice Food Tour
Snagging a table at a bacari can be a bit of challenge. Locals are happy to stand around chatting and nibbling, all while also impressively balancing a wine glass in hand.
Of course, all those bridges and stairs make anyone want to collapse in a chair and linger over a good Italian meal. There are definitely sit-down restaurants that are excellent, though you should plan to eat at them in your itinerary and make a reservation in advance.
To help you avoid a bad meal in a city bulging with crappy tourist restaurants, we’ve put together a list of a handful of our own favorite places to eat and find the best food in Venice at.
Osteria al Squero, Dorsoduro 943/944
Osteria al Squero is still off-the-beaten-path, or as off-the-beaten-path as one of Venice’s best bacari can be in a city that sees as many tourists each year as Venice does. But the tourists that do make it to Osteria al Squero don’t simply just stumble upon it; they purposefully seek this local favorite out.
Located directly across a small canal from Venice’s oldest still functioning gondola workshop, you’ll want to take your plate of cicchetti and drink outside to catch a glimpse of the gondolas being repaired and built.
The selection of cicchetti at Osteria al Squero is good and delicious. The swordfish is a favorite of ours. And at €1 – €2 a piece, you can try a plate full of various cicchetti.
All’Arco, Sestiere San Polo 436
Just steps away from the Rialto, where you can find bad food by the boat load, is the tiny All’Arco. It’s family run and you’ll find either Francesco Pinto or his son Matteo behind the bar preparing the day’s cicchetti and serving up glasses of wine to hungry customers.
Even though many tourists have found their way to All’Arco, it’s still a long-loved local favorite. The cicchetti like langoustines, proscuitto di San Daniele with melon, or prawns are all served on bread and are quite tasty.
Expect to pay €1.50 – €2.50 a piece here. And while more expensive than out of the way Osteria al Squero, it’s a far cry from the ridiculous prices you’ll pay for a bad and cooked from frozen meal at the many tourist restaurants lining the Grand Canal near Rialto.
Al Timon, Fondamenta dei Ormesini 2754
Al Timon has long been a local favorite in the Cannaregio neighborhood. There’s just a handful of tables, but it’s especially great if you can grab one of the outdoor ones along the Ormesini canal. The owner has a boat tied up there that serves as a stage for impromptu concerts for his patrons. The cicchetti selection is excellent with salumi, pecorino cheese topped with tomatoes and drizzled with olive oil or baccalà (a Venetian salt cod that is so creamy you won’t even guess that it’s fish).
There’s actually a menu at Al Timon and you can order a selection of pastas and main dishes. Prices are quite reasonable with pasta dishes starting around €12 and main courses like meat and fish from €18.
Cà D’Oro alla Vedova, Calle Cà d’Oro 3912
Alla Vedova, as it’s simply known among locals, has been run by the same family for over a century. It’s a bit rustic with the traditional wooden tables and copper pans, but this is Venetian charm at its best.
The small bacaro is known for making the best meatballs in Venice, though they won’t be covered in sauce and on top of heaping plate of spaghetti. That’s not actually Italian. These meatballs are sold individually as cicchetti and if you’re standing up eating at the bar, they’re usually served on a napkin. Get the meatballs early though, because only so many are made daily and when they’re gone, they’re done.
Alla Vedova does have a handful of tables and takes reservations for both lunch and dinner. The prices for pasta dishes start from €10. You’ll find traditional Venetian pasta dishes here like spaghetti with squid ink (bavette al nero di seppia), or the very rustic and thick Venetian spaghetti known as bigoli in salsa. We also like their spaghetti alla vongole (spaghetti with clams). Main dishes are also inexpensive from €11 and this is a good place to try the Venetian specialty of liver and onions.
Ristorante Casa Cappellari, Calle Figher, 805
Casa Cappellari is a newer restaurant in the Venice dining scene, but its founders are no strangers to owning successful restaurants. A stone’s throw from Rialto, this upscale restaurant features a modern and innovative take on classic Venetian dishes.
At Casa Cappellari, all the pasta is homemade, the fish is purchased directly from the fish market, and even the bread and bread sticks are all made by hand in house. The menu changes seasonally to reflect the freshest and best regional products. When in season, you’ll find dishes like Venetian spider crab, which I highly recommend trying. And if the menu offers their braised veal cheek, don’t even hesitate to order this melt-in-your-mouth dish.
Casa Cappellari is a popular Venetian restaurant and ranked among the best. Expect to pay around €60 per person for a 2-course meal. Reservations are highly recommended and can be booked online on Casa Cappellari’s website.
Al Gatto Nero, Burano
When you need a break from the pulsating crowds in Venice, hop on the vaporetto and head to the colorful island of Burano. Not only is the fisherman’s island incredibly charming with the rainbow of houses, it’s also home to one of Venice’s best traditional restaurants.
Of course, heading to a fisherman’s island you can expect the menu to be fish and seafood heavy. Try specialties from the Venetian lagoon like razor clams or langoustines. Savor the plates at one of the outdoor tables if the weather is nice enough, slowly sipping wine and watching the world (or the visitors of Burano) go by.
L’Alcova, Campo Santa Sofia Cannaregio 4198/99
Picture it. You’re sitting on a little terrace, one so exclusive there are only nine tables, at a 15th century palazzo right on the Grand Canal. The palazzo has even been declared a national monument. As you sip on some local wine, tourists on passing vaporettos crane their necks to see who might be special enough to dine on that little terrace of the ancient noble residence.
We know we said to steer clear of the restaurants lining the Grand Canal, but L’Alcova is different. L’Alcova is one of the most exclusive restaurants on the Grand Canal and worth the splurge for a memorable meal. The restaurant’s chef likes to put his own unique spin on traditional Venetian cuisine and he even takes the traghetto gondola across the Grand Canal to personally hand select fresh fish and vegetables from the Rialto Market daily.
Expect to pay €51 – €100 per person at L’Alcova and it’s best for a special romantic lunch or night out during your trip to Venice.
Da Mario Alla Fava, Calle dei Stagneri 5242
First opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking. It has since been passed down from father to sons Mario, Guido and Luca, who continue with the same passion in running the restaurant that they inherited from their father.
The “gallery” of famous personalities that have enjoyed the restaurant are displayed on the walls of the restaurant along with photos of Mario Bonavita, lending to the family feel of this vintage Venetian restaurant.
The menu changes seasonally, but the dishes are traditional Venetian recipes with modern twists. Expect to pay €50 – €100 per person at Da Mario Alla Fava. You can even book reservations online on LaFourchette.
Where to Stay in Venice
When traveling to Venice, you want to stay right in Venice for the best access to all of the sights and events. Though hotels in Mestre can seem tempting as the price per night is lower than hotels right in Venice, remember that you’ll have to travel back and forth between Venice and Mestre either by bus or train.
Residenza Corte Molin
One of our absolute favorite boutique hotels in Venice is the Residenza Corte Molin. Set in a palazzo formerly occupied by none other than a Doge of Venice, the owners have taken great care to retain a feel of the Venice of days gone by. The rooms are decorated with historic furniture pieces typical of Venice’s heydays. Yet, the hotel offers modern conveniences like air conditioning (definitely necessary in Venice’s summer months), wifi, and spacious ensuite bathrooms.
The location is right in the heart of Venice, steps away from the Rialto Bridge but tucked just far away enough to always be quiet. The owner is incredibly friendly, and the hotel is dog-friendly. There’s also a garden for guest use where you can sit out and enjoy a glass of wine.
Know Before You Go
A stay at the Gritti Palace Hotel, which is situated in a Venetian palazzo from 1475 on the Grand Canal will definitely make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to a wealthy Republic of Venice. The rooms are updated with modern amenities and this is one of the best hotels of Venice.
Steps away from the Rialto Bridge, but tucked away in a quiet area is another palazzo once the home of a Doge of Venice. It’s now a small boutique hotel with care taken to make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time when Venice was still ruled by Doges. Modern conveniences like air conditioning and wifi make Residenza Corte Molin an excellent choice for your home away from home when visiting Venice.
Further away from the busyness of the Grand Canal is the boutique Cima Rosa Boutique Hotel. It has just five rooms, but the breakfast (and view from breakfast) is superb. It’s located in the Santa Croce neighborhood, close to a number of excellent cicchetti bars and restaurants.
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Susanna says
I love seeing the different carnivals from around the world! Germany’s celebrations are so vibrant and I love them, but Venice’s has those fantastic masks! I would love to experience this in person one day. Loved your photos!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
I can imagine the carnivals in Germany are pretty crazy parties!
Laura Guerin Lovett says
This is great! We were there right before carnival for about a week and loved it, though I wish I could have picked your brain before we went! I loved how you gave the history of the masks, the carnival, and traditions.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Just before Carnival you probably still saw some people in costume and there is usually a boat parade down the Grand Canal. Hope you enjoyed your visit!
Erin says
Wish we had made it when you guys were still living there as it would’ve been fun to have you show us the ropes as first-timers. And, I second the recommendation for the cicchetti tasting tour with Walks of Italy, We took it a few years ago and it’s one of the best food tours I’ve done. I learned a number of interesting tidbits about Venice itself in addition to all the delicious snacks and wine we had! Great photos and an awesome guide to Carnival for anyone who’s thinking of going!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Coulda, woulda, shoulda! 😉 We held on to our costumes just in case we decide to do it all again as visitors some day.
Indrani says
What fun to participate in a live festival! The costumes are a bit expensive in my opinion, may be I will prefer to splurge in the restaurants and I would prefer to photograph the event. You got some lovely captures making me envious. 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
It can also be fun to just photograph all the costumes!
Anu says
Wow, I enjoyed reading the history of the Venice carnival. The festival dating back to 13th CE makes it ancient and the fact that it stopped happening for good 200 years and then came back with a bang makes its history quite interesting. We in Goa also have the carnival at the same time – just before lent when King Momo tells everyone to eat, drink & be merry. Very close my home, we enjoy the song, dance, masks and floats.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
We didn’t realize that India also has a carnival. It sounds like people also dress up in costume?
Eric Gamble says
So being from New Orleans, I am always intrigued by other places and how they celebrate Carnival, Mardi Gras, or Shrove Tuesday. Though Venice always peeks my interest as it along with France is the root of the rest of our celebrations.
I love your history of Carnevale di Venezia. Most festivals around the world are often based on victory. I am glad they brought it back.
For Darcee & I, I think all the bar crawls, free events like watching the angel, & the Vivaldi Concert are perfect for us to celebrate the Carnevale di Venezia! We would definitely constume because well…BECAUSE!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Yup, you’ve got to wear a costume! We’ve done both. The very first year, we didn’t wear costumes and it’s a totally different experience. With the costume, it’s like you’re a celebrity and everyone wants photos with you.
Fiona Maclean says
Ah, you have really enlightened me. I did think the Venice Carnival was expensive and something I’d never be able to afford to take part in. Now I know! And I loved getting an understanding of the history too. What a comprehensive post
Jennifer Dombrowski says
So many people think that, and really it can be an entirely free event. I suppose attending the official ball would be an experience, but it was just never our thing. And we had a lot of fun going year after year without ever splurging on the balls.
Nicole says
Your costume is so beautiful! I love that you have an artisan mask. The whole festival looks like a lot of fun especially the pub crawl. So cool.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Thanks Nicole! I sure got my money’s worth out of my costume. And even though we’ve moved to Bordeaux, we both kept our costumes.
Medha Verma says
I’ve been reading a lot of posts on the Venetian carnival lately and its such a great experience to look at all the splash of colours. I love the masks, and the black one in your last picture is so cool and classy! A pub crawl with all that delicious food and wine sounds like the perfect plan. It’s expensive to participate in the actual carnival though! Your costumes are nice 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
No, the carnival is 100% free. It’s the balls and parties that are expensive.
Nisha says
Super ! Another article on Venice Carnival, It must be an omen! I have been to Venice but the atmosphere seems to be so different during the carnival. The elaborate masks and period dresses look lovely, albeit the rentals being on the higher side. The food is definitely another highlight there 🙂
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Really? We haven’t really seen any others writing about Venice Carnival. In fact, it took us 7 years of living and going to finally sit down and write this guide.
Megan Jerrard says
Wow I had no idea that the Carnival was outlawed for a period of time. Nothing like the lure of tourist $$$ to keep culture alive right 😀 I do really want to experience the Venetian Carnival at some stage though, it’s one of the truly iconic festivals in the world, and it’s probably one of the most romanticized I think. Thanks for highlighting that it’s not expensive – always something I’ve kept in the back of my head for wanting to do, but I think I figured it would be a splurge, between costumes and events. Nice to know that there’s a range of things you can do for free!
Il Volo dell’Angelo and the costume parades are two things I wouldn’t miss, and it sounds fantastic to catch a Vivaldi Venice Carnival Concert! I think the photographer in me is most looking forward to the opportunities to photograph the elaborate costumes though. So many stunning and amazing looking dresses and masks!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Yes, so many people think it’s expensive to go to Carnival. The event itself is free, but flights and hotel rates do go up during the time as with any destination in high season.
Jennifer St Louis says
I love Venice but have never been during Carnival. It looks amazing! I would love to see all the costumes and masks in person. I think we would skip the ball and do the pub crawl too, It sounds more fun!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
The pub crawl really is a lot of fun, which is why we did it several times over our years living there. And each time, we ended up meeting visitors that we’ve kept in touch with.
Lucy says
I love the costumes and the masks! So over the top! I would love to experience the carnival in Venice. But the amount of people there would scare me, I have been to Venice many times in low and high season and I prefer the low season. Your costumes are really fun and it looks like you had a fantastic time.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Yeah, the hoards of people wasn’t our favorite part. The Flight of the Angel is the most crowded event, and if you get trapped in the streets on the way there you can feel like you’re about to be trampled. But that really only happens for the one event, otherwise people are streaming in and out of San Marco and doing the other usual tourist things.
Claire says
I didn’t know where the history of Carnival began, or that it was banned under the Fascist government – was that Mussolini? I’m glad it came back with a bang, it looks like a fabulous experience. The masks are incredible, and these are great tips for finding good food – I like the sound of the Cicchetti bars!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Yes, it was under Mussolini that Carnival was banned.
Mike says
So cool that you got to experience an authentic Carnival! Its been on my bucketlist for quite some time now. I never knew Il Volo dell’Angelo was the starting event. This will help me so much when planning my own trip to Venice.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Well, you can’t live 30 minutes away and not go to Carnival!
Andrzej Ejmont says
Man you have just made me soooo hungry!!! I love Venice and I wish that we have visited during the Carnivale!! Next time, right?! Thanks for a great post! Love the read and all the pics. What grabbed me the most, was your pic of the Piazza San Marco. Love that place!!! Thank you!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Thanks! You have to be up very, very early to get a shot of an empty San Marco like that.
Lauren West says
I love Venice any time of year but it must be so much fun at Carnival! I really appreciate your food tips, it all looks really good- eating disappointing tourist food is a huge pet peeve of mine so thanks for the tips!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
A lot of Venice visitors are disappointed with the food, and it’s because they fall prey to the tourist traps. Venetian food isn’t at all what people think of as typical Italian and I think it’s harder in Venice to find good, local food than most other places in Italy.
Lori says
We were just in Venice a few months ago and sadly missed the frittelle. Would have loved them filled with nutella. And a “pub crawl” through the cicchetti bars sounds like a great way to spend the evening. We found All’Arco and loved it. Thanks for the in-depth guide to Carnivale.
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Glad you found All’Arco!
Lillie says
I had no idea about these details! WOW about the history of the Flight of the Angel. The fried dough looks delicious — though it\’s hard for fried dough not to be! And I never considered it before, but you\’re so right that dressing up would be key to getting into the spirit of things, rather than being an awkward onlooker. Thanks for taking me along to peek at this event I haven\’t yet experienced in person!
Jennifer Dombrowski says
We didn’t dress up our first year going. It was fine, but you do get a totally different experience when you’re in costume. People, who can get crabby from the crowds, are just a little bit nicer to you and it’s fun that everyone wants to be photographed with you. I can’t even imagine how many photos we’re in with people from all over the world.
Darlene says
Just recently watched a video on how the masks are made by the Venetians. It’s nice to know that it’s not expensive to attend the Carnivale and that there are free guided museum tours. I loved reading about the history of the Carnivale. Thank you for writing such a comprehensive post! I would love to experience this someday!
Kevin Wagar says
I’ve always to take part in this event! And all the history you’ve shared hasn’t only grown that desire!
I picked up a Venetian mask when I was there and I would LoVE a chance to use it.
Emma Hoyes says
Hey! I’m thinking of going to the carnival next year and this was a really useful post to start planning my trip! I am torn between being sensible with budgeting and blowing it on an amazing costume! It’s nice to know there’s a pub crawl as another option to the expensive balls! (Although again I am tempted! ?) Enjoyed your post!
Diane Curry says
We’re getting ready to book for 2024! Any chance you’ve updated this info or others can share tips on hotels and where to eat? We’ve already got lots of costume experience and we’re packing the good to flaunt it! Thanks in advance.
Also – any idea if the Carnival ‘theme” is adhered to or is it just an umbrella title for the annual event?
Jennifer Dombrowski says
Hi Diane,
Carnival does not refer to like circus or carnival of that sort, if that’s what you mean. It’s the name for the event, and while just about anything goes there are some dress codes for the balls.
Also, all the information is up to date. As the next year’s Carnival approaches, I update event specific information like the dates and any special events.